Tuesday, May 17, 2016

Mocoa, Putumayo [Colombia]

Mocoa provided me two things: waterfalls and one of the world's craziest roads.

I arrived mid-afternoon to Mocao.  I've been anticipating this for many weeks as the starting point for was is considered to be one of the world's three most dangerous roads.  But, that would start on the following day.... today I wanted something to do to change my focus.

So, I asked around and was told to check-out the "Fin del Mundo" waterfalls.  But I better hurry...

So, I hurried.

I biked quickly the 15 km out of town and crossed the suspension bridge.  I arrived to the entry gate, but they wouldn't let me in.  I sweet talked and I pleaded, but no luck.  So, I appealed to reason.  I explained that I was biking through and had to leave to tomorrow to cross the "Trampolín del Diablo" in a single day.  If I couldn't enter today, I wouldn't ever see the waterfalls.

This was enough... they would give me two hours.  I assured them that would be plenty.

So I ran what would be the normal 90 minute hike in about 25 minutes.  I relaxed and swam and enjoyed seeing all three amazing waterfalls.

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I woke up early... I had a big day and wanted to get start.

The day's work is to ride "El Trampolín del Diablo" (The Devil's Trampoline).  This is Colombian "Death Road", one of the world's three most deadliest roads... 85 km of single lane dirt roads with straight cliffs and 2,800 m (9,000 ft) of vertical climb.  Most people go from the top down... I've decided to go from the bottom up.

It is a brutal day.  Without a doubt the most difficult day of the entire trip to date.  Most of the time it is raining.  I am soaking wet and exhausted for most of the day.  But, I have committed and there isn't anywhere to stop.

I struggle and push for nine hours.  I lost my brakes at one point and had to stop by dragging my feet before going off the edge.  Only to make hasty brake repairs in the middle of the road, avoiding being hit my the cargo trucks that frequent this route.

Finally, I reach the top... a short 45-minute ride downhill and I'm in town.  I can barely walk into the hotel for night.

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