Quito [Ecuador]

Quito should be like any other big city: loud, dirty, fast.

And it is all these things.  But, there is also something different.  The population (approximately 3 million people) seem a little more friendly, a little more solid and genuine.  They are mountain people and they still act like it.

Perhaps it's the altitude, ranging from 2,800-3,100 meters, making it the highest official capital in the world.  Perhaps it's their idea of preservation (Quito is considered to have the best-preserved, least altered historic center in Latin America).  Perhaps it's their heritage (the city was founded on the ruins of an ancient Inca city).

I can only say it has been an enjoyable time in Quito.

Ibarra [Ecuador]

I seldom stop pedaling before dark, but this was an exception.  I arrived to Ibarra at 3:30 and had already put in 120 km with 1,400 meters of climbing.  The next town was some distance and I was tired.  So, I decided to stop early.

That was it... I stopped early, took a nap and started getting caught up on e-mail. I enjoyed walking around a bit and finding some groceries.  Nothing like a normal, relaxing evening.

Ipiales, Nariño [Colombia]

Ipiales is my last stop in Colombia.  It's a small town on the border of Colombia and Ecuador.

About 20 km outside of town, a car pulls over and a man invites me to stay at his house that night.  I'm tired, soaking wet (and have been for several days), and gladly accept.

I hurry as fast as I'm able (its hard to move when so wet and cold) to his house.  I'm greet with a warm shower and place to dry out my gear.  Nothing could possibly be better at that point!

After a short rest, I head to see the impressive "Lajas" cathedral.  This is a relatively new building that is built across a large river gorge.  The setting and architecture combine for a stunning effect.

I take my time, enjoying the sunset and evening in this unique place before heading back.

Tomorrow, Ecuador!!!

Mocoa, Putumayo [Colombia]

Mocoa provided me two things: waterfalls and one of the world's craziest roads.

I arrived mid-afternoon to Mocao.  I've been anticipating this for many weeks as the starting point for was is considered to be one of the world's three most dangerous roads.  But, that would start on the following day.... today I wanted something to do to change my focus.

So, I asked around and was told to check-out the "Fin del Mundo" waterfalls.  But I better hurry...

So, I hurried.

I biked quickly the 15 km out of town and crossed the suspension bridge.  I arrived to the entry gate, but they wouldn't let me in.  I sweet talked and I pleaded, but no luck.  So, I appealed to reason.  I explained that I was biking through and had to leave to tomorrow to cross the "Trampolín del Diablo" in a single day.  If I couldn't enter today, I wouldn't ever see the waterfalls.

This was enough... they would give me two hours.  I assured them that would be plenty.

So I ran what would be the normal 90 minute hike in about 25 minutes.  I relaxed and swam and enjoyed seeing all three amazing waterfalls.

---

I woke up early... I had a big day and wanted to get start.

The day's work is to ride "El Trampolín del Diablo" (The Devil's Trampoline).  This is Colombian "Death Road", one of the world's three most deadliest roads... 85 km of single lane dirt roads with straight cliffs and 2,800 m (9,000 ft) of vertical climb.  Most people go from the top down... I've decided to go from the bottom up.

It is a brutal day.  Without a doubt the most difficult day of the entire trip to date.  Most of the time it is raining.  I am soaking wet and exhausted for most of the day.  But, I have committed and there isn't anywhere to stop.

I struggle and push for nine hours.  I lost my brakes at one point and had to stop by dragging my feet before going off the edge.  Only to make hasty brake repairs in the middle of the road, avoiding being hit my the cargo trucks that frequent this route.

Finally, I reach the top... a short 45-minute ride downhill and I'm in town.  I can barely walk into the hotel for night.

Pitalito, Huila [Colombia]

On of my favorite things to do while traveling, is to ask locals what they enjoy doing in the area and where they go.  I did this exact thing in Pitalito and avoided nearly cruising past an incredible site.

The local I asked was incredibly surprised (I'm still not) that I hadn't heard of San Agustín.  It's a quiet little mountain town with lots of ruins and waterfalls.  I decided to take a detour the following morning to go for a visit.

I wasn't disappointed.  I got up early... well, a normal "biking" morning of 5:30 am.  Got dressed and started hitching a ride up the mountain.  I had arrived the 25 km by 6:30 and found a place to eat a quick breakfast before going to the ruins and museum.

I arrived much earlier than the area was open.  So, I walked around and saw some of the statues in the "garden".  Once the gates open, I purchased a ticket and enjoyed being the first person in the national reserve.

Aipe, Huila [Colombia]

Aipe is small town that serves as a the gateway to the Tatacoa desert.  I've been looking forward to wandering around into the red sand.

To get the desert, I have to cross a major river.  So, I start asking around..... I'm told to take this trail and the end of that road and there will be a boat that will cross the river.  Enticingly vague, and without other options, I start down the trail, bike in tow.

I continue down the trail for 30 minutes and come to the river.  It does look like a place where ferries have been used.  The problem is, there isn't a ferry... I walk along the river and see ferries on the other side.

So, I wait.  Wait and walk, walk and wait.

After over an hour, I see somebody on the other side of the river and yell across.  They respond and then walk away.

After another hour I see a dude walk down to one of the ferries.  I wave my arms and he comes to me.  This is my ride across the river....

I get out of the dug-out canoe and make arrangements for a ride back.

La Palmita, Tolima [Colombia]

The places I find myself....

After several nights of staying in hotels, I decided to get back to "my roots" and camp, even though I didn't really have camping gear (no tent, no sleeping bag, no stove, etc.).  The weather has been sunny and hot for over two weeks and I should be fine "sleeping out under the stars".  So, I look on the map and find what looks like a good place next to a river.

I waited until dusk (to make my exit off the road less noticeable) to move off the road and up the river bed.  After a solid 30 minutes of pushing, carrying, and dragging my bike (a mere 35 kgs with gear) over rocks, under fences, and across fields, I find a nice spot on the river to camp.

The sun had completely set and it was twilight when I had set-out my gear and gotten my stuff ready to go down to the river for a quick wash.  I had just sat down on a rock next to a nice thigh-deep pool when I noticed two men walking along the distant shore.  All I could see was the outline of their silhouettes and the occasional glow of a cigarette and they inhaled.

They came closer and closer, and then stopped directly across from me.  After a few minutes, they walked directly towards me.  I had remained motionless for the last several minutes, hoping that they hadn't seen me and would continue down the river.  But now, it was obvious that they had seen me and were coming directly towards me.

After a few more moments, they were close enough that I could see they both had guns...

They identified themselves soldiers and began questioning me... for 15 minutes... and I was only in my underwear (I was getting ready to bath at the time).  At the end of it all, they informed me that I was in the middle of a military exercise and should, no, make that shouldn't... yes, I should find another camp spot.  They left telling me that I shouldn't move... there was a lot of changing of opinion...

I, of course, stayed to see what would develop...

Well, the entire night carried on, with several troops moving through the area.  No one else found me (my camp was well hidden in the trees), but there was a lot of cursing and tromping and crashing in the bushes and water and everywhere.

The night I camped in the middle of military exercises...

Girardot, Cundinamarca [Colombia]

It doesn't happen often... in fact, in over 10,000 km of biking this may be the first time...  I found a near perfect bike road.

What exactly makes a perfect bike road?  The answer is tricky...

It can't just be straight and flat; that would be too easy.  There have to be enough turns and ups 'n downs for an interesting time.

It can't be too long nor too short; that would be satisfying.  It needs to be long enough that something is accomplished.

The weather can't just be sunny; that would be too simple.  There needs to be some clouds and a little wind so that the good weather can be appreciated.

The road can't be all paved; that wouldn't create enough technique.  There needs to be enough rocks and bumps to learn and develop.

The can't be too many nor too few people.  There needs to be enough cars and traffic that you don't feel like you are in the middle of nowhere.

Maybe I haven't found the perfect road after all... maybe after 10,000 km I've learned to appreciate the road in front of me.