Linares [Chile]

I've officially reached the Patagonia region of Argentina/Chile!

It really has been a dream of mine to visit this area for many, many years.  And now, I've arrived!  There are big gorgeous mountains and rivers and lakes and pine trees... actual pine trees!

Yesterday, while talking with a friend, he asked me how it was here.  I began to describe the mountains and pine trees and... then I started laughing.  Not fully understanding what was going on, he asked what was so funny.

I told him the area was just like home... I'd just traveled all this way to see what was just down the street where he was... he began to chuckle also.  Ahhhh, the ironies of life.

Las Loicas [Argentina]

Ahhh, the twists that life takes...

Las Loicas is the small town, almost exactly 100 km from Malargüe, where I turned off the road to head to a small homestead along the "Rio Grande" to work as a gaucho.  And it's two weeks later before I return....

Life as a guacho was interesting.  I'm accustomed to farm work, having spent a good portion of my childhood working on a farm.  But this seems somehow more glamorous and mystical... It only takes a few days for the glamour to wear thin... although, I have to admit, that every time I think that I'm actually working as a gaucho, a smile cracks my lips.

The day is pretty straight forward.  Wake early, drink mate (a herbal tea made from a alfalfa-like grass; an Argentine must), herd the goats into a corral where we fed the motherless chavatos (baby goats) milk from mothers that have only one child or are childless, drink mate, go to the other corral, slaughter a goat for lunch, drink mate, eat lunch, drink mate, siesta (hell ya!), and back to the motherless chavatos.

The routine repeats itself everyday.  There isn't an exception.  There can't be an exception.

The spice of each day is a little different.... one day, we listen to the River vs. Boac futbol match (I'm told that I MUST cheer for River); one day, we go to the neighbors for dinner (only a 25 minute walk away.... after crossing the river in a small cable/cage contraption); one day we fish with small crayfish thingies used for bait; several days we work with horses, using lassos to bring them to the ground before we begin; one day, I repair a lasso destroyed by a horse in one of our aforementioned battles (who knew I had those kind of skills?!?!?).

Malargüe [Argentina]

Malargüe is a beautiful little ski town at the foot of the Argentine Andes.  It's amazing how much it looks like it's right out of the US.  There is a classic main street with shops lining both sides.  Immediately off the main drag are residential areas with homes... real homes, homes with yards and fences and gardens.  Gone are the apartments and wrought-iron fences and window bars.  People are small-town friendly... It feels like home...

I find myself a quaint hostel run by a middle-age couple that treats the guests like part of the family.  We talk and eat until late at night, enjoying siesta the following afternoon.  I have a nice little patio to work on the bike and the views are stunning.