Trujillo [Perú]

I arrived to Trujillo mid-afternoon.  I'm quite excited to take a shower and nap after several days of pushing through the desert.

I cycle into the center of town and find a reasonably priced hotel, but the room in on the seventh floor.  I take the room and start lugging my heavy bike and gear up the narrow stairs.

I take a wonderful shower, the first in several days.  Even though it's only lukewarm, it feels amazing.  While showering, I wash my two changes of bike clothes and set them out to dry.

I've been told there's some interesting ruins outside of town.  I'm exhausted and decide to take a nap before exploring any more.

After a nap, I jump on the bike (always a little weird to ride around without all the gear) and quickly cycle to 10 km to the ruins of Chan Chan.  I arrive to find the ruins closed for the day.  But, I can't resist trying to enter... I start cycling through the massive complex in the desert as the sun sets.

Chiclayo [Perú]

The last several days find me on the coasts of Perú.  There is a continual coastal headwind that significantly slows progress.... but I enjoy the vastness and beauty of the desert.

I bike for hours at a time without seeing anything but sand and the occasional plants.  Perhaps there is a house every 60-70 km.  If I am lucky, they will have water and a little food... if I am not, I continue to the next building.

I make it to Chiclayo on my last drop of water.  I take advantage of the mid-morning arrival and eat a hot breakfast and fill-in on water before moving on.

Máncora [Perú]

Upon crossing the border from Ecuador to Perú, the landscape changes drastically.  Everything has become a desert.

I begin traveling along the coast, happy to have sun and heat and dry and flat; a major change from the constant rain and elevation and wet of Ecuador.

After a couple days, I don't feel well.  I figure it's from the change of climate and temperature and my body needs a few days to adjust.  So, I stop in the little surf town of Máncora for a well-deserved rest.

Well, my anticipated 2-day rest for shopping, bike maintenance, and physical rest quickly turn into a major stop after I begin peeing blood my second night.  Turns out that I have a major kidney/bladder infection... an unwelcome souvenir of the physical extremes I've been pushing.

No worries, some antibiotics and several more days rest have me up and biking again.  South we go!

Machala [Ecuador]

My arrival to Machala marks many firsts.  This has been my biggest day to date with 151+ km.  It was also the day that I dropped from 3,500 m (11,500 ft) to sea level.  I imagine that sounds like a long, beautiful downhill ride, and it was.... sort of...

Over a length of 150+ km, I dropped from the rain and green and mountains to the dry, agricultural coast.  Much of the ride required some significant pedaling to power through the significant headwinds.  Starting almost precisely at 11:30, the warmed air from the coast shot it's way up through the valleys and gorges, collecting moisture to dump at the "mid-elevations" above 2,800 m and, in the process, creating a significant deterrent for me.

The road was also rather rough.  Almost without fail, as soon as I reached a good cruising speeding of 50 km/h (30 m/h), I would have to hit the brakes to avoid major potholes or rocky road or attacking dogs or other obstacles.  Oh well, who wants easy anyway?

Cuenca [Ecuador]

After several days of rolling up and down endless mountains, continual mist and rain, and very simar food, I arrive to Cuenca, a welcome respite.

This is a cool city that has a great vibe.  It is a mix of European style with Latin flair.  People are relaxed and enjoyable to speak with.  There is lots of murals and street art.  Rivers run through the town and there are frequent parks and walk-ways.

Sadly, it also marks the beginning of the end of my time in Ecuador.... from here, a major drop to sea level and on to Perú.