Puerto San Carlos, Baja California Sur (II) [México]

Its great to be staying with friends!  I've spent the last several days taking caring of my long list of "to-do's".  I made tent repairs, completely cleaned and serviced Surlita, got all the sewing down, and dishes clean.

I enjoy being as much a part of the "daily life" as possible.  As I'm staying with a family of fishermen, this has included the daily cleaning of "the catch", talking about the weather, "fish" stories, and learning lots of new recipes.

One night, I even went shrimping... eliciting many, many Forrest Gump jokes from the locals and friends around the world.  Not unexpectedly, I got incredibly seasick, nearly breaking my record of number of vomits per hour.  They'll be joking about that one for many years in San Carlos...

Puerto San Carlos, Baja California Sur (I) [México]

Two days... two long days.

From Loreto, I spend an entire day climbing, non-stop climbing.  I really don't mind, but it is incredibly hot and I can't drink water fast enough.  My daily average is to drink 8+ liters of water.  I drink as fast as I can and fill the water bottles as fast as I can.  At one point, I must pedal for 10 km without any water... I don't like cutting it that close.

I camp at the top of the last peak, not wanting to start downhill even though I haven't put on many miles and I'd like to get some distance.  "Tomorrow," I think to myself.  "Tomorrow I'll have a nice start."

So, I camp for the night and start my first fire of the trip.  I "found" some fresh corn and I'm dying to roast is on an open fire.

The next day is HUGE!  It isn't really downhill as much as it is flat.  At this point, flat is good!

I take full advantage of flat and relative cool to put on 80 km before lunch, what I would typically do in one day.  The afternoon is brutal!  Flat, hot, straight, dry, and a strong wind from the sea.  I have to stop every 45 minutes to rest to prevent massive overheating.

I reach my goal of Puerto San Carlos as the sun is setting.  The legs are twitching and I walk like an old cowboy.  It's been 9 hours of pedaling for 135 km (85 miles), drinking 12 liters of water in the process.  It's not long before I find myself rest on the the front porch of dear friends, the Ojeda family.  The day day ends by eating coctél de camarón and telling stories.  It's great to be back in San Carlos!

Loreto, Baja California [México]

After a week of waiting for better weather, I am finally able to take the ferry to Baja California.  The ride isn't so bad, especially considering that I get tremendously seasick... I manage to make the entire 10 hours trip without any major problems.

It is good to be back on land, and even better to be back in the saddle and moving.  For two days, I follow the western coast of Baja California.  For two days, I absorb the beauty of the ocean.  I haven't seen much water yet, and definitely not the ocean.  It feels good to cruise along water and have a nice breeze.  Plus, I have plenty of Mexican seafood (mariscos) that need to be eaten!

I'm already feeling like a beach bum and I still have several months of coast to follow... YES!

Guaymas, Sonora (II) [México]

The ferry leaves today!!!!!

After waiting for 7 days (which really isn't the worst thing in the world), the ferry is going to run.  The weather has been good on shore, but 30-40 knot winds at sea have been causing problems.  The "northwesterner" winds I'm told; I'm also told that come with the changing cycles of the moon.

By now, I know all the workers on the dock by name and I joke that it's the curse of the gringos or that they just don't want me to leave Guaymas...  If they don't want me to leave, all they have to do is invite me to their house, I say; I'm happy to stay in Guaymas... they don't need to cancel the ferry.  The guys that know me laugh, the new guys aren't sure how to handle a gringo that jokes in Spanish.

Now, to Baja California to visit close friends and eat LOTS of shrimp; 'tis the season!!!

Guaymas, Sonora (I) [México]

I arrived late to Guaymas.  I push hard, very hard to make the 140+ km trip from Hermosillo in one day.  I'd been told my a few people told that the ferry from Guaymas to Santa Rosalia, Baja ran every day and left between 10-12 pm.  I was really wanted to get on the boat because I knew that bad weather was coming and I get sick enough as it is.... no need to add even worse scenarios.

Well, the ferry had left earlier that day, to avoid the weather.  In addition, it only ran every second or third day, under the beat circumstances.  It looked like I was going to be in Guaymas for a few days....

Now, three days later, I'm still waiting on the ferry.  Perhaps, it will go tomorrow, "perhaps..." I'm told.

Luck is with me.  It's Dia de la Revolucion, a national holiday.   Nothing else to do but eat my fill of tacos and dance to Ranchero music.  ¡Viva México!

Aconchi, Sonora [México]

Mountains?!?!  There's no mountains in Mexico......  Boy, was I wrong!  The last three days have been nothing but brutal mountains with devasting headwinds.  The uphill is too steep to ride, the downhill is steep to ride, and there isn't any in between.  Did I mention that the roads are so horribly bumpy that going faster than 8 mph is guaranteed to shake all your teeth out?!?!?

The reward.... after three days of such travel, I finally arrive to the most amazing hot springs, ever!  Just outside of Aconchi, Mexico in the state of Sonora is a little 'ol place with several cement pools collecting natural thermal waters.  I arrived after sunset, just before they closed the gate.  A little sweet talkin' and I had the entire place to myself for the entire night!  I would like to say that I ran and jumped and frolicked like a school kid, but, the truth is I just sat in the hot springs for hours and soaked my tired legs.... it was amazing nonetheless!!!!  Viva Mexico!

Douglas, Arizona [USA]

Two big days of 70+ miles (120 km) have put me  at the US/Mexico border.  Thanks to warm weather, minimal wind, and flatter terrain, I've made great time.

Looking forward to crossing the border and eating me some taco al pastor!!  Viva México!  Viva la revolución!!

Cliff, New Mexico [USA]

Five days of biking through New Mexico have been wonderfully remote.  Each night, I hear the coyotes yipping and howling at sunrise and sunset.  One night, they got a little close, waking me around 3 am.  The "towns" usually consist of an all-in-one gas station/cafe/post office/gossip post.  I'm still at fairly high altitude (8,000ish feet) and wake to frost each morning.  The only vehicles on the road are hunters and cowboys and an occasional "local".

Somehow, there have been constant headwinds, no matter which direction I'm traveling.  It makes the biking hard... I average about 10 miles per hour when biking and a 10-20 mph headwind pretty much stops me in my tracks.  I have to pedal on the downhills and go all out on the flats to make any headway.... uphills require walking.  The good news is that the legs are getting strong and yesterday I posted my biggest day at 60 miles!

Quemado, New Mexico [USA]

After spending five wonderful days in Durango purcahsing new gear and fixing old stuff, I'm on the road again!  It feels good to be on the bike, although, the legs aren't quite used to it yet.

The last few days have seen me cycling through El Malpais National Monument.  It's beautiful country, but the altitude is still quite high = cold at night and windy during the day.  Quemado doesn't offer much, but it did provide me with a solid breakfast burrito smothered with green chile!

I'm entering Gila National Forest and it looks like no cell service nor internet for the next few days.... means I'll be traveling through some pretty country!