León [Nicaragua]

After twelve days of non-stop moving, it's wonderful to take a couple much-needed rest days.

I've really tried to avoid hotels during this trip, but it is Christmas and I just don't feel like I can ask anyone to stay with them... I would be too much of an intruder.  So, I find a hotel that was formerly a villa.  This translates to a giant courtyard with garden, a formal dining room, a sitting lounge, three different reading nooks, and a roof-top patio with a view of the distant volcano.  The owner of the hotel is an avid biker and let's me make some much needed bike repairs in the courtyard.  There is a big kitchen for guests to cook in.  I'm the only guest and during the night, I tell the lone receptionist that she can go home to have time with her family.... which means I have the entire place to myself.  Let me repeat... a Spanish villa all to myself, with fast internet, a courtyard for bike repairs, and a wonderfully big kitchen to cook in = AMAZING!!!

For two nights, all night long, there are fireworks and gunshots to celebrate Christmas.  Life is good!

Honduras and Nicaragua

I'm glad to be in Nicaragua.

On a practical level, most of the "dangerous" sections of Latin America are now behind me.  The US/México border area, riddled with narco crimes is past.  I've avoided the drug triangle of the states of Guerrero and Michoacán.  I've been cautioned for several weeks on the poverty areas and the crimes in Guatemala, El Salvador, and Honduras.

But, I'm most glad to be with the Nicaraguans.  These are kind, hard-working people.  I've been offered help on several occasions.  Most people are just shocked with what I'm doing, but then they get it... much more so than anyone else.  I'm constantly told "how beautiful it must be to travel and speak with people".  They understand that the intriguing part is the "adventure" of the trip instead of looking for other reasons like so many other people do.  Most importantly, I just feel friendly and safe.

Thank you Nicaragua!!!

Guatemala and El Salvador

The heat continues, but I've adjusted.  Now, I start early (between 6:30 to 7:00).  I maximize the pedaling in the cool parts of the day before stopping to eat breakfast.  Then I struggle through a couple more hours as the heat increases.

The best part, is that I now take a mandatory siesta break starting between 12:00 to 12:30.  All through Guatemala and El Salvador, I have found rivers to stop by during this time... I plan my timing to arrive during the heat ;)  I stop, drink lots, and then take a swim before laying down in the shade for a little while.  Then pedal again for a few more hours before night sets in.

The afternoon break has been great and provided me a nice way to break the day into different parts and hang with locals.

Oaxaca and Chiapas [México]

It's hot... freaking hot!  It's bake-your-brains hot!!!  To avoid the heat, I start pedaling around 7.  By 7:30, all of my clothes are soaking wet with sweat.  I sweat so much, that it runs into my eyes and down my arms, making it difficult to see and even more difficult to hold onto the handlbars.

I can only really go for about 45 minutes before I begin to overheat, so I stop, wring my shirt out, wring it out again, drink a liter of water, then wring my shirt out once more before I start pedaling.  This has me drinking 8-10 liters of water each day.
 
From 12:30 to 3:30, I can't pedal... The heat of the day is too strong.  So, I take a nice siesta break... Eat some food, drink lots of liquids, and relax.... I must follow local customs, right??!?

After 4, its starts to cool down.  I pedal until the last minute of light to maximize the day.  It makes the camping difficult, but keeps me at 100 km a day.

Acapulco, Guerrero [México]

It's been a wonderful week of traveling with fellow cyclist, Shane H.  There have been lots of stories to tell and new stories to write.

From Puerto Vallarta, Shane and I parted ways... at least for the moment.  He is headed inland and I'm following the coast.  We are both heading to Patagonia and are positive that our paths will cross again.

From Puerto Vallarta, I took a bus to Acapulco.  This portion of México has had a rash of crime lately and several people, locals and non-locals alike, have recommended that I avoid this area.

Sayulita, Nayarit [México]

Torrential rain... two full days of tropical torrential rain.

After a difficult night on the beach of San Blas, getting absolutely munched by mosquitoes and sand flies, me and my new-found cycling companion woke up to rain.  We quickly packed all of our things, shoving them in the bags, soaking wet and full of sand.

That day continued, incredibly humid.  As the day ended, the rain clouds just opened up soaking us again... we were left with few options for camping.  A quick look at the weather was the deciding factor, we were at the beginning of a tropical storm.  An hour of wandering through town, asking locals about places to stay, found us at an inexpensive hostel, where we were glad to have a couple beds in the dorm room.

Now, the rain has continued all day, soaking all the "drying" clothes multiple times.

No problem, the forced "rest" day has been fully maximized using the hostel's kitchen to cook multiple meals: fried potatoes, greek salad with bacon AND bacon grease, quesadillas, multiple banana and cantaloupe smoothies, tostadas, vegetables.  What can I say!?!?!?  I gotta get those calories!

Escuinapa, Sinaloa [México]

The last two days I've been cycling with two other guys and it's been a lot of fun!  One is an Australian ultra-marathoner who has been biking for the last five months from Whistler, Canada and the other is a Mexican cyclist who is traveling home after being away for three years.  Both are great guys and all of us enjoy the time together.

It's different to have people to talk with while cycling and while camping as opposed the usual quiet of these times.  At night, we share stories and cook meals together.  During the day, we laugh at the difficulties and wave at the cars that pass.  It's always interesting to talk about gear and reasons for doing different things.

Mazatlán, Sinaloa [México]

After a wonderful stay with the Ojeda family in Puerto San Carlos, it was time to move on.  I left well-fed and with plenty of extra calories stored for a long trip to La Paz.  This stretch of highway was a challenging stretch... long, very straight, and very hot.

I was in a hurry to get to La Paz.  I heard that all the ferry tickets from La Paz to Mazatlán were were sold-out for the next several weeks and I didn't want to have a long wait like my last ferry experience (a one week wait).  My concerns proved to be unfounded.  Other than a tiring ride, everything went smoothly and I easily had a ticket and found a great secluded beach to camp for the night.

The ferry ride wasn't smooth, but I managed to escape the 19+ hour ride without a seasickness attack, which is fairly monumental in my book.  In addition, I met several motorcycle riders and a couple of cyclists also heading to Argentina.  We all got of the boat in "bike gang" style and went immediately to the nearest mariscos (seafood) restaurant, less than 1 kilometer away to gorge ourselves on fresh ceviche and coctel de camaron.  I think I like this...

Puerto San Carlos, Baja California Sur (II) [México]

Its great to be staying with friends!  I've spent the last several days taking caring of my long list of "to-do's".  I made tent repairs, completely cleaned and serviced Surlita, got all the sewing down, and dishes clean.

I enjoy being as much a part of the "daily life" as possible.  As I'm staying with a family of fishermen, this has included the daily cleaning of "the catch", talking about the weather, "fish" stories, and learning lots of new recipes.

One night, I even went shrimping... eliciting many, many Forrest Gump jokes from the locals and friends around the world.  Not unexpectedly, I got incredibly seasick, nearly breaking my record of number of vomits per hour.  They'll be joking about that one for many years in San Carlos...

Puerto San Carlos, Baja California Sur (I) [México]

Two days... two long days.

From Loreto, I spend an entire day climbing, non-stop climbing.  I really don't mind, but it is incredibly hot and I can't drink water fast enough.  My daily average is to drink 8+ liters of water.  I drink as fast as I can and fill the water bottles as fast as I can.  At one point, I must pedal for 10 km without any water... I don't like cutting it that close.

I camp at the top of the last peak, not wanting to start downhill even though I haven't put on many miles and I'd like to get some distance.  "Tomorrow," I think to myself.  "Tomorrow I'll have a nice start."

So, I camp for the night and start my first fire of the trip.  I "found" some fresh corn and I'm dying to roast is on an open fire.

The next day is HUGE!  It isn't really downhill as much as it is flat.  At this point, flat is good!

I take full advantage of flat and relative cool to put on 80 km before lunch, what I would typically do in one day.  The afternoon is brutal!  Flat, hot, straight, dry, and a strong wind from the sea.  I have to stop every 45 minutes to rest to prevent massive overheating.

I reach my goal of Puerto San Carlos as the sun is setting.  The legs are twitching and I walk like an old cowboy.  It's been 9 hours of pedaling for 135 km (85 miles), drinking 12 liters of water in the process.  It's not long before I find myself rest on the the front porch of dear friends, the Ojeda family.  The day day ends by eating coctél de camarón and telling stories.  It's great to be back in San Carlos!

Loreto, Baja California [México]

After a week of waiting for better weather, I am finally able to take the ferry to Baja California.  The ride isn't so bad, especially considering that I get tremendously seasick... I manage to make the entire 10 hours trip without any major problems.

It is good to be back on land, and even better to be back in the saddle and moving.  For two days, I follow the western coast of Baja California.  For two days, I absorb the beauty of the ocean.  I haven't seen much water yet, and definitely not the ocean.  It feels good to cruise along water and have a nice breeze.  Plus, I have plenty of Mexican seafood (mariscos) that need to be eaten!

I'm already feeling like a beach bum and I still have several months of coast to follow... YES!

Guaymas, Sonora (II) [México]

The ferry leaves today!!!!!

After waiting for 7 days (which really isn't the worst thing in the world), the ferry is going to run.  The weather has been good on shore, but 30-40 knot winds at sea have been causing problems.  The "northwesterner" winds I'm told; I'm also told that come with the changing cycles of the moon.

By now, I know all the workers on the dock by name and I joke that it's the curse of the gringos or that they just don't want me to leave Guaymas...  If they don't want me to leave, all they have to do is invite me to their house, I say; I'm happy to stay in Guaymas... they don't need to cancel the ferry.  The guys that know me laugh, the new guys aren't sure how to handle a gringo that jokes in Spanish.

Now, to Baja California to visit close friends and eat LOTS of shrimp; 'tis the season!!!

Guaymas, Sonora (I) [México]

I arrived late to Guaymas.  I push hard, very hard to make the 140+ km trip from Hermosillo in one day.  I'd been told my a few people told that the ferry from Guaymas to Santa Rosalia, Baja ran every day and left between 10-12 pm.  I was really wanted to get on the boat because I knew that bad weather was coming and I get sick enough as it is.... no need to add even worse scenarios.

Well, the ferry had left earlier that day, to avoid the weather.  In addition, it only ran every second or third day, under the beat circumstances.  It looked like I was going to be in Guaymas for a few days....

Now, three days later, I'm still waiting on the ferry.  Perhaps, it will go tomorrow, "perhaps..." I'm told.

Luck is with me.  It's Dia de la Revolucion, a national holiday.   Nothing else to do but eat my fill of tacos and dance to Ranchero music.  ¡Viva México!

Aconchi, Sonora [México]

Mountains?!?!  There's no mountains in Mexico......  Boy, was I wrong!  The last three days have been nothing but brutal mountains with devasting headwinds.  The uphill is too steep to ride, the downhill is steep to ride, and there isn't any in between.  Did I mention that the roads are so horribly bumpy that going faster than 8 mph is guaranteed to shake all your teeth out?!?!?

The reward.... after three days of such travel, I finally arrive to the most amazing hot springs, ever!  Just outside of Aconchi, Mexico in the state of Sonora is a little 'ol place with several cement pools collecting natural thermal waters.  I arrived after sunset, just before they closed the gate.  A little sweet talkin' and I had the entire place to myself for the entire night!  I would like to say that I ran and jumped and frolicked like a school kid, but, the truth is I just sat in the hot springs for hours and soaked my tired legs.... it was amazing nonetheless!!!!  Viva Mexico!

Douglas, Arizona [USA]

Two big days of 70+ miles (120 km) have put me  at the US/Mexico border.  Thanks to warm weather, minimal wind, and flatter terrain, I've made great time.

Looking forward to crossing the border and eating me some taco al pastor!!  Viva México!  Viva la revolución!!

Cliff, New Mexico [USA]

Five days of biking through New Mexico have been wonderfully remote.  Each night, I hear the coyotes yipping and howling at sunrise and sunset.  One night, they got a little close, waking me around 3 am.  The "towns" usually consist of an all-in-one gas station/cafe/post office/gossip post.  I'm still at fairly high altitude (8,000ish feet) and wake to frost each morning.  The only vehicles on the road are hunters and cowboys and an occasional "local".

Somehow, there have been constant headwinds, no matter which direction I'm traveling.  It makes the biking hard... I average about 10 miles per hour when biking and a 10-20 mph headwind pretty much stops me in my tracks.  I have to pedal on the downhills and go all out on the flats to make any headway.... uphills require walking.  The good news is that the legs are getting strong and yesterday I posted my biggest day at 60 miles!

Quemado, New Mexico [USA]

After spending five wonderful days in Durango purcahsing new gear and fixing old stuff, I'm on the road again!  It feels good to be on the bike, although, the legs aren't quite used to it yet.

The last few days have seen me cycling through El Malpais National Monument.  It's beautiful country, but the altitude is still quite high = cold at night and windy during the day.  Quemado doesn't offer much, but it did provide me with a solid breakfast burrito smothered with green chile!

I'm entering Gila National Forest and it looks like no cell service nor internet for the next few days.... means I'll be traveling through some pretty country!

Durango, Colorado [USA]

I'm officially two weeks into my trip!

The last several days have found me in Durango, CO making final adjustments on gear for a big push to Mexico.  During the ride across Utah, I had problems with several different pieces of gear, including the panniers (bags).  So, I've been waiting in Durango for replacements to arrive.

As I don't like "waiting", I've spent two days speaking to classes at the local high school (Durango High), volunteering with the local avalanche awareness courses (Friends of the San Juans: www.thesanjuans.org), and being interviewed for the local newspaper/adventure TV station (www.4cornerstv.com).

Ain't no sense in resting when there's plenty to be done!

Moab, Utah [USA]

The last few days have been full of ups and downs....  It's great to be biking.  I love cruising along the road and enjoying the scenery; even better when I get a honk or people stop to talk.  People connect with what I'm doing and I can see their excitement.

But, it has been rough.  It's been raining hard the last 5 days....  I keep getting soaked all day and then lightning all night.

Today was the worst of it.  Right as I was packing my gear this morning, it dumped, soaking everything.  This afternoon was another downpour.  I was so cold and wet that I could barely keep my legs moving.

I finally found a place to stop for the night and was getting everything ready to camp, hoping things would dry, when a friendly neighbor drove up.  He jumped out of his truck and gave me a hot meal.  I couldn't thank him enough.  It's amazing what simplest of gestures can do!!

If you have the opportunity, return the favor to Doug at Gearheads in Moab, Utah.  Thank you for ending my day on a wonderfully positive note!

I'm Pedaling

Today is the day!  The bike trip has begun!!! Hoped to start riding yesterday, but..... we all know that goes....

Stayed up late to finish final preparations, did a final mental rally, and got a few hours of sleep.  I got up at 4 am to start pedaling early; needed to be down the canyon before sunrise to hitch a ride to Zion National Park = four days of climbing awesomeness with friends!!!

Park City Television

Today will mark another first...  tonight (Wednesday, October 7) I'll be interviewed by Terry Burden on Park City Television.  You can watch the live show at 18:30 MST on:  parkcity.tv/livestream

Can't make the show?  Don't worry!!!  You can watch the recorded interview on my web page under "Recent Adventures".

Bike complete

The mighty Surly Long Haul Trucker is complete!!!  The final touches were made today by adding the front rack and front bag.  Nearly all the preparations are complete!

Need to finalize a few things and then I'll be hitting the road!

First Ride!

After a coupla hours of final tweaks and additions, I picked up my brand new Surly Long Haul Trucker yesterday.  It is big and shiny and black and I like it!!!!

Just finished an inaugural ride of 20ish miles and man, oh man, does this bad boy run smooth!  The gears shift flawlessly, the handlebars are comfy, and the wheels just roll out the miles.  Just a few minor tweaks and the front rack 'n bag and we'll be on the road.

Heber City, Utah [USA]

Bike has been put together, gear is being tested, and the promotional materials (business card & spostcards & stickers) have arrived.  Things are coming together!!!

Enjoying the last few days of summer and visiting friends as the leaves change colors.  Even got another tattoo, on the ribs.

Arriving to Utah

Exciting news!  Almost exactly three months after leaving China (including three weddings in three different countries, almost completely flying around the globe, and a LOT of stories), I have finally arrived "home".  This means putting everything together for my next adventure... a 50,000 km bike trip.

The last few days have been productive: US SIM card has been purchased, web site and domain have been acquired, gear lists have been compiled, and home-cooked meals have been enjoyed.  Next on the list: print business cards and completely outfitting the new bike!